Perhaps you decided that you want a Boxer after seeing one. Now that you have decided, it is time to go about getting him—or her. You'll have to make up your mind about whether you want a male or a female, an adult or a puppy, a show dog or "just a pet". There is no greater use for a dog than being 'just' a beloved pet and companion, but the dog which has profitable show and breeding possibilities is worth more to the seller.PET OR SHOW BOXER
The puppy with a slight flaw in his ear carriage or quantity of coat will make just as good a companion and guardian, but his more perfect litter mate will cost more.
That is why there is often a difference in price between puppies which look to you, anyway— identical. If you think you may eventually want to show your dog or raise a litter of puppies, by all means buy the best you can afford. You will save expense and disappointment later on. However, if the puppy is strictly a pet for the children, or companion for you, you can afford to look for a bargain. The pup which is not show material; the older pup, for which there is often less demand; or the grown dog, not up to being used for breeding, are occasionally available and are opportunities to save money. Remember that these are the only real bargains in buying a dog. It takes good food and care and plenty of both - to raise a healthy, vigorous puppy.
The price you pay for your dog is little compared to the love and devotion he will return over the many years he'll be with you. With good care and affection your pup should live to a ripe old age, through modern veterinary science and nutrition, dogs are better cared for and living longer. The average life expectancy is twelve years, and dogs in their teens are not uncommon.
MALE OR FEMALE BOXER
If you should intend breeding your dog in the future, by all means buy a female. You can find a suitable mate without difficulty when the time comes, and have the pleasure of raising a litter of pups—there is nothing cuter than a fat, playful puppy. If you don't want to raise puppies, your female can be spayed, and will remain a healthy, lively pet. The female is smaller than the male and generally quieter. She has less tendency to roam in search of romance, but a properly trained male can be a charming pet, and has a certain difference in temperament that is appealing to many people. Male vs. female is chiefly a matter of personal choice.
ADULT OR PUP BOXER
Whether to buy a grown dog or a small puppy is another question. It is undeniably fun to watch your dog grow all the way from a baby, sprawling and playful, to a mature, dignified dog. If you don't have the time to spend on the more frequent meals, housebreaking, and other training a puppy needs in order to become a dog you can be proud of, then choose an older, partly trained pup or a grown dog. If you want a show dog, remember that no one, not even an expert, can predict with 100 percent accuracy what a small puppy will be like when he grows up. He may be right most of the time, but six months is the earliest age for the would be exhibitor to pick a prospect and know that his future is relatively safe.
If you have a small child it is best to get a puppy big enough to defend himself, one not less than four or five months old. Older children will enjoy playing with and helping to take care of a baby pup, but at less than four months a puppy wants to do little but eat and sleep, and he must be protected from teasing and overtiring. You cannot expect a very young child to understand that a puppy is a fragile living being; to the youngster he is a toy like his stuffed dog.
WHERE TO BUY YOUR BOXER
You can choose among several places to buy your dog. One is a kennel which breeds show dogs as a business and has extra pups for sale as pets. Another is the one-do owner who wants to sell the puppies from an occasional litter, paying for the expenses being his chief aim. Pet shops usually buy puppies from overstocked kennels or part-time hobbyists for re-sale, and you can generally buy a puppy there at a reasonable price. To find any of these, watch the pet column of your local newspaper or look in the classified section of your phone book. If you or your friends go driving out in the countryside, be on the lookout for a sign announcing pure-bred puppies for sale.
Whichever source you try; you can usually tell in a very short time whether the puppies will make healthy and happy pets. If they are clean, fat and lively, they are probably in good health. At the breeder's you will have the advantage of seeing the puppies' mother and perhaps the father and other relatives. Remember that the mother, having just raised a demanding family, won't be looking her best, but if she is sturdy, friendly and well-mannered, her puppies should be too. If you feel that something is lacking in the care or condition of the dogs, it is better to look elsewhere than to buy hastily and regret it afterward.
You may be impatient to bring home your new dog, but a few days will make little difference in his life with you. Often it is a good idea to choose a puppy and put a deposit on him, but wait to take him home until you have prepared for the new arrival. For instance, it is better for the Christmas puppy to be settled in his new home before the holidays, or else to wait until things have settled down afterward. You may want to wait until the puppy has completed his "shots," and if this is arranged in advance, it is generally agreeable. If you cannot find the dog you want locally, write to the secretary of the national breed club or kennel club and ask for names of breeders near you, or to whom you can write for information. Puppies are often bought by mail from reputable breeders. Pictures and pedigree information can be sent by breeders, who also can supply you with further details and helpful guidance. Many clubs provide a puppy referral service.
Where you buy your puppy depends on what you want, just as the type of dog you choose depends on you.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A PUPPY
In choosing your puppy, assuming that it comes from healthy, well bred parents, look for one that is friendly and out going. The biggest pup in the litter is apt to be somewhat coarse as a grown dog, while the appealing "poor little runt" may turn out to be a timid shadow—or have a Napoleon complex! If you want a show dog and have no experience in choosing the prospect, study the standard, but be advised by the breeder on the finer points of conformation. His prices will be in accord with the puppies' expected worth, and he will be honest with you because it is to his own advantage. He wants his good puppies placed in the public eye to reflect glory on him—and to attract future buyers.
Now that you have paid your money and made your choice, you are ready to depart with puppy, papers and instructions. Make sure that you know his feeding routine, and take along some of the food. It is best to make any diet changes gradually so as not to upset his digestion. If the puppy is not fed before leaving he will ride comfortably on your lap where he can see out of the window. Take along a rag or newspapers for accidents.
PEDIGREES
When you buy your puppy you should receive his pedigree and registration certificate or application. These have nothing to do with licensing, which is a local regulation applying to pure-bred and mongrel alike. Find out the local ordinance in regard to age, etc., buy a license, and keep it on your dog whenever he is off your property.
The registration certificate is the important part. If the dog was named and registered by his breeders you will want to complete the transfer and send it, with the proper fee, to the national kennel club. In the United States, this would be the American Kennel Club. They will transfer the dog to your ownership in their records, and send a new certificate to you. If you receive instead an application for registration, you should fill it out, choosing a name for your pup, and mail it with proper fee to the Club. Be sure that the number of the puppy's litter is included.
